Organic cotton and certifications – how to find your way around? Cotton is one of the most widely used textile fibres in the world… but also one of the most polluting when grown conventionally. Its production requires huge amounts of fresh water and uses around 16 to 25% of the world’s pesticides. Yet, thanks to its comfort and versatility, cotton remains essential.

Fortunately, organic cotton exists and offers a more planet- and people-friendly alternative. But here’s the catch: between official labels and logos invented by certain brands, it’s not always easy to tell the difference between genuine and fake organic cotton.

So, who can you trust?

Why choose certified organic cotton?

Organic cotton farming protects biodiversity, soil, farmers’ health and, indirectly, your own. But most importantly: only a reliable certification can guarantee traceability and protect you from greenwashing.

An “organic” cotton without certification is like “fairtrade” chocolate without a label: a promise without proof.

The recognised certifications: OCS and GOTS

Today, two certifications really stand out in the world of organic cotton: OCS and GOTS.

OCS (Organic Content Standard), developed by the US-based NGO Textile Exchange, guarantees that the cotton has been grown without GMOs or pesticides and that it is traceable from the field to the finished product. However, this certification does not cover workers’ social conditions or the products used during cotton processing (such as dyes or printing).

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), based in Germany, goes much further. In addition to ensuring that the cotton is truly organic (no GMOs, no chemical inputs), it oversees every step of production, from spinning to manufacturing, to ensure that no harmful substances are used. It also requires respect for workers’ rights, regular laboratory testing to confirm the absence of GMOs and pesticides, as well as strict rules on water management and chemical waste treatment.

In short: OCS confirms the cotton is organic, while GOTS guarantees the cotton is organic and respectful of the environment, workers and your health.

Can we trust non-certified labels?

Many brands display “green” logos or “organic cotton” claims without any official certification. The problem? These claims are not backed up by independent checks or certifications.

The figures speak for themselves: for years, global “organic cotton” sales have far exceeded actual production. In other words, a portion of cotton sold as “organic” is not organic at all.

In some countries, such as Germany, the use of the word “organic” is strictly regulated by law: it is forbidden to use it without official certification. This measure could soon be extended across Europe with the Green Claims Directive, which will require brands to prove their environmental claims.

Other labels worth knowing

⁃ Fairtrade Cotton: guarantees a minimum price and a premium for producers. Beware: it can be fairtrade without being organic.
⁃ EU Organic Farming: certifies organic farming, but does not cover textile processing.
⁃ BCI (Better Cotton Initiative): a very common programme, but it is not organic cotton. It’s a “more responsible” cotton initiative (ideal for high-volume brands sourcing cotton from regions where organic cotton cannot be grown due to climate or insect pressure), with less impact than conventional cotton, but still far from certified organic standards.

Market trends and traceability

Today, organic cotton represents just over 2% of the cotton grown worldwide. In other words, it’s a rare and valuable fibre.

But traceability is improving: in addition to audits and certifications, new technologies are emerging, such as blockchain and molecular marking, which allow the cotton’s origin to be verified beyond paperwork.

And for you, what difference does it make?

Choosing certified cotton is more than just a gesture for the planet:
– It ensures your sheets, clothes or towels contain no GMOs or toxic residues harmful to your skin.
– It helps protect the environment and biodiversity from GMOs and pesticides in cotton-growing regions.
– It supports farmers and workers who operate in decent conditions.
– It guarantees clear traceability, free from marketing fluff.

Conclusion

At Kalani, we have chosen GOTS-certified organic cotton from the very beginning, despite the constraints and cost, because it is the only label that guarantees organic standards, social responsibility, and the health of both consumers and the supply chain.

Next time you buy textiles, make sure to check the label. If you see the GOTS logo, you can rest easy…